Modern advances in adult acne treatments

While acne isn’t a new concern in skin care, the way we treat it has undeniably evolved.

Celebrity facialist Joanna Vargas charges over $ 350 for a facial, has an eponymous skincare line, and is pretty much speed dial for any actor or actress on the awards circuit this spring.

She has also become the unofficial “acne whisperer” for customers who visit her store in New York or Los Angeles, respectively, last year – a circumstance she attributes to wearing the mask and doing so. which she describes as “unofficial word of mouth”. stress ”(meaning that his clients tell him that the main difference in their routines is that they feel more stressed).

“Overall, I have treated more acne than ever before,” says Vargas. “Before, I only saw acne with younger clients who came for appointments. Now there are a large number of people in their 30s and 40s who suffer from acne in its own right, all in the masked areas of the face and along the jawline. ”

Statistically speaking, the numbers are synchronizing: According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), acne affects up to 50 million people in the United States, and the percentage of facial acne occurring in adults is increasing, affecting up to 15% of women (who tend to have acne in adults more often than men). Likewise, clinical studies conducted last year confirm the fact that, unsurprisingly, skin conditions like acne, dermatitis, and rosacea increased in severity in patients who wore masks, i.e. say “maskne”, for prolonged periods.

It’s a whole new world, and I think we’re better at it.

As Vargas recalls, it was the norm for customers to come in for a premium facial treatment and have the option of a “trendy glycolic peel as an add-on” to any facial service. “Now we know a lot more about the benefits of LED light, treating oil with oil, gut health as it relates to skin inflammation and our connection to the mind and body. body as a way of managing life to be more balanced. It’s a whole new world, and I think we’re better at it, at least at the skin level. “

Special skin

Alicia Yoon, esthetician and founder of Peach & Lily, also saw the need for a new solution for acne, one that was not harsh or, as she describes it, “non-nourishing” for the community of the lily. ‘acne.

While she admits it took years to develop her Peach Slices acne skin care system that launched over the summer, she says it was something she knew she had to step up during COVID, and on a more personal note, when she found out she was pregnant. ”

When the skin is dehydrated, it can trigger inflammation and constant rashes.

So many acne systems cause side issues like making the skin worse or not giving visible results. In our skin care consultations with clients struggling with these issues, we often found that they were missing moisturizing or soothing ingredients, or were using ingredients that would disrupt the skin barrier.

According to Yoon, when these “other” nourishing ingredients aren’t included in a routine, the skin and rashes can get worse. “For example, when the skin is dehydrated, it can trigger inflammation, increased sebum production, and constant rashes. It is essential to use ingredients that fight acne, but also ingredients that nourish the skin. We wanted to create an acne routine that would facilitate both treatment and prevention of acne, while providing gentle, nourishing support. I have dry, sensitive skin with eczema and I don’t normally struggle with rashes. However, I did this during my pregnancy, and this system was already being developed by then – the benefits of having formulas before launch! “

Yoon says she wanted to be conservative during her pregnancy when it comes to what she applied to her skin, and Montclair, dermatologist NJ Jeanine Downie, MD says that’s smart. “No retinols or retinoids for pregnant women. Not now, never, ”she stresses, adding that this is a skincare recommendation that has eased a bit recently.

But, she says, there have been a few benefits over the past year: “With the advent of the ‘Zoom Boom’, it has become easier for dermatologists to virtually treat patients with eczema, acne and psoriasis. That being said, insurance companies don’t want to pay for many of these virtual tours, so plan ahead. As long as you have good connectivity and can upload photos to a secure website, it works great. Personally, I always prefer in-person visits, but this is a great option for acne patients.

The RX break

“Why do we have no problem paying $ 100 for a serum that we don’t know much about, but balk at a $ 150 prescription that we know will work?” New York dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD asked me for a virtual consultation a few months ago.

A solid statement, as he told me he would recommend that I go back to a more solid retinol routine and try Altreno (Tretinoin) Lotion, 0.05%, which he likes to prescribe both for its anti-aging benefits and to help with sensitive and rash-prone skin.

“It’s like a ‘pipe cleaner’ for your skin,” shares Dr. Zeichner. “And you’re going to really like the formulation – it’s super hydrating.

“Saddle Brook, NJ dermatologist Dr. Fredric Haberman also likes the lotion to treat acne, cleanse pores and promote cell renewal, and considers it one of the best” acne innovations of the latest. decade”.

On its long list of benefits: “It reduces the tendency of keratin cells and debris to clump together and clog pores, making it especially useful for people with oily and acne-prone skin. In addition, it increases the production of collagen and elastin. It also helps lighten skin, reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve discoloration, minimize photo damage and hyperpigmentation, and refine skin texture and tone.

A few months of use later, and I’m also in love with the Rx. It’s one of the only prescription retinol products my reactive skin has been able to handle, and it has the ever-popular benefit of asking “what are you doing differently?” question.

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