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Halston’s costumes are Studio 54’s ultimate ode to glamor

Trying to capture the legacy of a figure like fashion designer Halston in the span of a five-episode run is no small feat. An Iowa-born milliner turned fashion designer and mainstay of New York-era disco-era nightclub Studio 54, the late Roy Halston Frowick changed the face of American fashion in the ’70s. His angled cut designs and glamor have been worn by fashion icons like Liza Minnelli, Elsa Peretti, Pat Cleveland, Anjelica Huston and Bianca Jagger. But while hedonistic excess is the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Halston, harsh minimalism and luxurious fabrics were the touchstones of the brand. And that’s exactly what Jeriana San Juan brought to life when creating the costumes for the Halston series. “As a costume designer, I had to give a bit of fashion education, so people really understood how incredibly revolutionary and forward thinking Halston’s clothing was in its day,” she says. In addition to looking at old photographs of the people depicted in the Netflix miniseries, San Juan also studied fashion from the 60s to the late 80s. “Studying fashion from all those eras was a joy. I went to places like the Women’s Wear Daily and the Conde Nast Archives at Vogue, and studied old columns that talked about the company at the time, the music that was on the radio, and the circle. artists and friends that Halston surrounded himself with. with, ”says San Juan. “It never really felt like work, it was like a celebration of fashion.” This is done on the screen. The costumes she put together are full of rich, jeweled colors, flowing fabrics and sparkling lamé – fitting from the Studio 54 era. San Juan began putting together the wardrobe by sourcing any vintage Halston. that she could find. “Vintage Halston pieces are very hard to find at this point, because I think people really realize how important a designer he was… and collect them,” she says. She then complemented them with recreations and original designs created by her team. “I really wanted these [vintage] clothes to shine like what you see first on screen. And so working backwards from there, I found ways to nod to some of his most famous silhouettes of the time, and then I created several original pieces in the voice that he did. was using at the time, ”she says. HALSTON (L to R) EWAN MCGREGOR as HALSTON, DAVID PITTU as JOE EULA, and REBECCA DAYAN as ELSA PERETTI in episode 104 of HALSTON Cr. ATSUSHI NISHIJIMA / NETFLIX © 2021 HALSTON (L to R) EWAN MCGREGOR as HALSTON and JUAN CARLOS DIAZ as OSCAR DE LA RENTA in episode 102 of HALSTON Cr. ATSUSHI NISHIJIMA / NETFLIX © 2021 The series focuses on the crucial looks of Halston’s career – the pillbox hat Jackie Kennedy wore at the John F. Kennedy unveiling, the rise of the Ultrasuede wrap dress the designer for became known and the fashion of the Battle of Versailles show, the legendary event where five Parisian couturiers (Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, Marc Bohan of Christian Dior, and Hubert de Givenchy) clashed against a quintet of American designers (Halston, Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein and Stephen Burrows). San Juan remembers going into “Carmen Sandiego” mode, studying photographs from the 1973 show and watching the documentary Battle at Versailles, which she found so useful that she made it a “homework” for her. the whole team. “I found myself as a private investigator early on, putting together all the footage I could find and sort of putting a puzzle together in what he showed at Versailles. Then I had to find a way to do it with some precision and some cohesion, because it was still a TV show, ”she says. After deciding to focus on evening wear, she found a vintage Halston kaftan which she then used as the cornerstone of the scene. “There is a photograph of [American model] Karen Bjornson wears this beautiful dress with a plunging V-neckline that looks like a light blush pink sequin. And so I recreated this one, because it was so gorgeous, and also kind of matched the vintage kaftan that I could find, ”she says. “I also ended up paying homage to that gold chiffon, kind of a Greek goddess dress that Pat Cleveland wore, and then sort of building it up and taking a creative license as well, so all these dresses, seen together on stage, feel really cohesive. and harmonized. »HALSTON (L to R) THE HALSTONETTES, KRYSTA RODRIGUEZ as LIZA MINNELLI, and REBECCA DAYAN as ELSA PERETTI in episode 102 of HALSTON Cr. ATSUSHI NISHIJIMA / NETFLIX © 2021 As San Juan tried to stay as authentic as possible, she changed Minnelli’s costume for her dance number at Versailles, opting for a sequined vest and pants that the Cabaret star wore for a another opportunity in real life. “Because we were condensing our experience of Versailles and what we could see in this world, I really wanted to make her a show costume, in which she would be able to dance and perform, and something that looked like to the quintessential Liza from that period, ”she says. “I just felt like it was a real iconic look for Liza who really spoke to Cabaret, that she was kind of on the heels of that fame. It was just kind of the right thing. It is this type of artistic license that allows all of Halston’s creativity to show itself in the 45-minute episodes that focus largely on his personal life, marked by drug use and poor business decisions. HALSTON (L to R) EWAN MCGREGOR as HALSTON and KRYSTA RODRIGUEZ as LIZA MINNELLI in episode 10Studio 54 of HALSTON Cr. PATRICK MCMULLAN / NETFLIX © 2021 One of the things San Juan wanted to stick with was Halston’s attention to fit and fabric. Nowhere is this more evident than in the bespoke looks of Ewan McGregor, who plays the designer. Even wearing her signature look – a black turtleneck with matching pants, a white jacket – McGregor’s clothes exude the kind of textural and luxe art that solidified Halston’s legacy in the fashion world. “I had to make sure that all the fabrics he wears were exquisite, and that was vital to telling his story authentically – making sure the jackets were real cashmere, because they are really going to drape and hang. hang on to your body and photograph it in a different way, ”says San Juan. “I wanted to do this as precisely as possible.” Having said that, she also wanted to question the idea that it was her entire wardrobe: “I really wanted to show it as three-dimensionally as possible, and not get too caught up in something.” that would almost look like a uniform. To make sure, she added pops of scarlet red and pieces like a leather trench coat (top photo) to her look. Halston’s most whimsical designs come to life in the 1968 fashion show the series uses to portray the start of the designer’s illustrious career as a clothing designer who showcases the tie-dye kaftan collection. After finding two original tie-dye pieces – one from a vintage curator, the other from her friend’s private collection – San Juan once again built the rest of the line around them. The result is a colorful runway performance full of dancing looks that make it easy to imagine the world falling in love with Halston at that point. “Her tie-dye kaftans feel so much from that period, sort of iconic for that moment, when [the] hippie [aesthetic] had sort of gone from a youth rebellion movement to a fashion movement, ”says San Juan. HALSTON (L to R) RORY CULKIN as JOEL SCHUMACHER, EWAN MCGREGOR as HALSTON, and REBECCA DAYAN as ELSA PERETTI in episode 101 of HALSTON Cr. JOJO WHILDEN / NETFLIX © 2021 HALSTON (L to R) THE HALSTONETTES in episode 101 of HALSTON Cr. JOJO WHILDEN / NETFLIX © 2021 But while tie-dye kaftans feel great in the designer’s days, they’re also perfectly all the rage today when the pandemic sparked a resurgence in DIY printing. “The whole relevance of tie-dyeing right now is pretty wild,” says San Juan. “He was such a trendsetter… Halston was really so timeless with his clothes. They’re very hard to pull off, because the look is so timeless, and that, I think, is part of the reason we all love Halston. Halston releases on Netflix on May 14. Do you like what you see? How about a little more R29 goodness, here? Zamunda’s fashion came to life in Coming 2 AmericaLaw Roach’s Costumes Shine In Malcolm & MarieThe Dark Significance Behind Ratched’s Costumes


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